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Re: second gear problem



At 06:41 AM 08/14/1999 +0800, Bob Bitchin wrote:
 >Hi all, I was wondering if anyone else has a problem with their ST jumping
 >to neutral when changing down to second gear.......
 >I have a problem where my bike is going into second on deceleration for a
 >couple of seconds then dropping into neutral by itself, it is an
 >intermittent problem that is very offputting,as the bike actually goes into
 >second starts slowing the bike then just starts freewheeling and the

Not that I have heard of.

If this is happening with some frequency and from the rest of your email, I 
think it is, then you may have a problem. If I was to hazard a guess (and 
it is fairly uneducated), I would say you have a damaged selector drum or 
selector fork.

 >the outer lane. I use the clutch on take off then for the change to second
 >then I dont use it to change up gears, changing down I use the clutch Blip
 >the throttle as I depress the gear lever then release the clutch in all
 >gears. I thought it might have been me bumping the lever wihout realising
 >snip<
 >sorry to dribble on about it for so long but wanted to eliminate as many
 >replies about my bad riding as possible :)
 >thanx for any replies in advance.

Well, I want to comment on your riding ;-)

I really don't have enough mechanical experience to comment on clutchless 
shifting, but there was the following question in the August 1999 Cycle 
World "Service" column.

- - Eric

"Safety in Clutches"
Q: After many years of riding, I recently tried clutchless upshifting for 
the first time. I only did it between 3500 and 5000 rpm, but I was amazed 
at how smoothly and seamlessly my VFR 800 Interceptor shifted when I did 
this. But does clutchless upshifting make things break or shorten the life 
of the transmission, chain, sprockets or whatever, or is it actually better 
for motorcycle longevity? Is it safe to do up near red-line rpm? Dario San 
Diego California.

Ans: If executed to perfection, clutchless shifting (either up or down) 
does not cause drive line components to break or wear prematurely. Trouble 
is, if not done perfectly, the technique dramatically increases the chance 
of drive line damage. When the clutch is disengaged, the considerable 
inertia of the spinning crankshaft and all the reciprocating engine parts 
(pistons, rods, etc.) is separated from the enormous inertia of the rest of 
the motorcycle (including your body mass) as it rolls down the road; but if 
the clutch is still engaged, those two forces are not isolated from one 
another. Under those conditions, even one botched or mismatched shift can 
take a tremendous toll on the drive line; and over a period of time, that 
damage can surface in countless ways, all of which spell a decreased life 
span for the drive line components. I suggest you use the clutch. That's 
why it's there.





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