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for Eric - trailering



 >>> Other than chocking the front wheel should I be using any other
chocks or channels to hold the wheel or wheels <<<

    Using something like 4"X4", you want to chock (or you can buy
purpose built metal channels, big $) the FRONT and SIDES of the front
wheel.  Your tie-downs will (MUST) be pulling forward as well as to
the side and will hold the wheel nicely in the chocks.

 >>> I have heard that damage to the front forks can result from
compressing them while trailering....how do I avoid this <<<

    Damage is possible only if you crank them down way too tight and
the sustained high pressure causes a fork seal leak.  You want the
forks to work on the trailer bed the same way they work on the road,
i.e. holding the tire firmly against the trailer bed while allowing
the forks to extend and compress a little as the chassis responds to
irregularities in the pavement.  I pull the tiedowns as tight as I
can and then let off for 1"-2" of fork travel.  It's my habit to
loosen the fork springs when parked overnight (don't know if it relly
helps) but be sure you have a way to remember this if you run out
later to the store or head off for breakfast in the morning!  Don't
ask.

 >>> Should the bike be up on the center stand for this operation <<<

    Absolutely not!  A good bump can easily raise the rear enough to
allow the center-stand to snap up, thus loosening all your tiedowns.
Also, rubber has more traction than metal and is less likely to slide
on the trailer bed.

 >>> What are good tie down points to use <<<

    To keep the front wheel straight, you need to tie down from
somewhere on the bars.  It's okay to use the grips, but...use the end
of the tiedown opposite the buckle and feed the strap back through
the eye of the hook to make a loop; use this loop, not the hook, to
place over the grip and pull it tight with the strap feeding out in
the direction of the tiedown point.  Have the throttle approx.
half-way open so that it's free to turn slightly.

    The rear wheel should be tied down at points as close to the rear
axle as possible and with the straps as close to 90 degrees to the
side as possible.  Avoid any rearward pull on these straps as that
will work against the fork action.  Chocks on the sides of the wheel
are okay; the rear wheel should be free to move fore and aft
slightly.  
 >>> Any other suggestions? <<<

    If you should lose the trailer on the road due to the tongue
breaking or some such malfunction, it's better if the bike departs
from the trailer.  Unfettered trailers are vicious creatures that'll
beat a bike to death until they stop moving.  Don't ask how I Know!

    Covers - I have had mixed results with covers.  Usually they just
beat themselves to death in the wind and scuffed up the paint. Unless
encountering sandstorms (we do out west) or hail, I don't use them.

    Sorry for such a long answer but 1250 miles is a long way!

                           Have fun;     doggydo     - - - o%\o

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