[ST] Meanderings

["Andrew F. Kay, Jr." <captainquack@xxxxxxxxxx>]

>
> There are 5 groups of stainless steels, ferritic, martensitic, austenitic,
> duplex, and precipitation-hardenable.

> Doug Bailey
> Metallurgical Engineer
> Textron Lycoming

Most remarkable.  So we have two types of stainless steel developed from
research done in the Weasel family, one from Texas, another of unknown
sexual orientation and yet another which gets harder in the rain?  You
metallurgical types must lead most interesting lives.

On more prosiac subjects, my Bridgestone BT57 (rear) gave up at 5800 miles,
including one track day.  The coup'de gras was delivered by a one-inch
roofing nail inserted just to port of the centerline.  The middle of the
tire was almost to the wear bars, as most of our Florida riding tends to be
straight-up.

The replacement is an 020, and seems to be a moderate improvement over the
BT.  When the front goes a set of either Metzlers or Avons will most likely
be in order.  I have not had the severe cupping with the front that I
experienced with my Sprint Exec, but I would like to elimanate the rest.

Re: break-in, I've written at length on this in "Legends of the Lost
Empire", but to summarize:

    1.  Heat is what kills an engine.  Whatever you do during break-in keep
the heat down and give time for the engine to cool between "working" hard.
If it is hot, especially with an air cooled engine,  ride at night, avoid
heavy traffic and freeway "droning".  Take short trips in the suburbs or
country, don't leave New Delhi for Peshawar with only 30 clicks on the
clock.

    2. Cover the RPM range, don't lug or baby the engine and remember, with
a new bike you're breaking in everything, not just the rings.  The brakes
need to seat, the xmission and its systems including the chain(s) all need
some run in.  As described on the site referenced, don't hesitate to "grab a
handfull", but allow ample cool down time between accelerations.  Work your
way up the tach as you progress and avoid remaining at any RPM for more than
a few minutes.

    3. Use a "break-in oil" for at least the first 500 miles.  On older
bikes I use 30W, non-detergent.  Since Triumph gives you a crankcase full of
it's own oil, use it.  You can replace it again at the first change if you
like, but I imagine that rings that remain unseated at that point (500 mi)
will cause you problems, regardless.  Some riders change the oil after the
first 10-50 miles, on the theory that they get rid of "loose metal"
(Ferrets? Texans? Deviates?) left in the assembly process.  On the other
hand, if it is big enuff to cause problems, it was probably too late after
the first 50 revolutions.

    4.  Your dealer should be your "advocate" with Triumph, so don't make
his job harder.  To protect your warranty on a new bike, stick pretty
closely to the procedure the manufacturer recommends.  "Don't exceed 6000
RPM" says nothing about how fast you get to the temporary limit, though,
does it?
>
> What IS the function of the coolant tank?
> BRG
> email: keith.tynan@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> '00 Sprint ST BRG 'Wolfram'

To hold coolant.  Should be obvious, what?  Just as BRG is the fastest
colour.

 >  I'm all for weight reduction but shouldn't this be stainless steel?
> Randy
> '00 RS