RE: [ST] Valve Shim Replacement - Another Perspective [was:Crank story continues...]

["Rick & Joyce" <rnjwes@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

This conversation applies to first-generation 955i and earlier 885
shim-OVER-bucket engines.  For our purposes, that's the '01 and
earlier ST/RS.  For multi Triumph owners, my recollection is the '01
Tiger and Daytona were the first models to get the second-generation
955i, shim-under-bucket engine as fitted to the ST/RS in '02.  

Neil Lindsey wrote:
> > first of all, you don't have to be factory-authorized to work on a
> > Triumph (hell, many Triumph dealer mechanics are not
factory-authorized)

Tom Emberson responded:
> Yeah, but the dealer has to have the kit. So if he took the bike to
a 
> dealer, the tech should have had access to it.

True, the dealer should have the tool but that doesn't mean it's
available.  It may have been in use.  

Neil:
> > secondly, you gotta admit -- for the mechanic that doesn't have
the
> > tool, the job probably IS easier

Tom:
> If the tech does not have the tool, then it is likely he hasn't been

> working on too many Triumphs, so I would probably do the job myself
or 
> find someone with more Triumph experience. The tool is not that 
> expensive. And I believe third party version exist.

I did work at a Triumph dealership and I don't have the factory tool.
My experience is that it is a PITA to use, perhaps more trouble than
it's worth.  It requires disassembly and reassembly depending on
whether you're changing an exhaust or intake shim.  There is also a
real danger you'll over-rotate the engine and bend the tool or at
least pop the arm off the edge of the shim bucket requiring that you
start over.  As a former VW tech, I'm used to having a tool which will
quickly compress the shim bucket and facilitate shim exchange.  These
days I use what I call a heel bar* to accomplish that.  It ain't
perfect, but it allows shim replacement without using the factory tool
or cam removal. 

Neil:
> > thirdly, it can probably be argued that once you have made your
> > measurements and know which shims need to be replaced, it might 
> > actually be easier to remove the camshafts and change the shims 
> > all at once rather than one at a time (depends probably on how
many 
> > shims need replacing)

Tom:
> No, after doing the valves on my ST and playing with cams on other 
> vehicles I can guarantee you that the tool will cut the time in
half, 
> even if you have to replace every shim. Remember to pull the cams
you 
> have to loosen the chain, remove all the caps, carefully lay out all
of 
> the bearings, can't mix'n match those puppies, then carefully snake
the 
> cams out (some bikes are worse than others, depends on where the
chain 
> is), the reversal adds in making sure that you did not screw up the 
> timing.

Even without using a heel bar (link below), it isn't necessary to
*remove* the cams to change shims.  All one has to do is loosen the
caps.  Granted the #3 shims (next to the cam chain) are a bit tight,
but it can be done.

Tom:
>YMMV of course. As an engineer I tend to optimize (as I've been
told), 
and I just call'em the way I see them.

Nothing wrong with that!
--
Rick in Oregon
'01 Sprint ST

* Heel or Lady Foot bar:  a small L-shaped pry bar about 6" [152mm] in
length with a curving, hooked end.  I use a Mac LF-6, similar to but
smaller than those pictured here:  http://tinyurl.com/7pk66 

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