Re: [ST] DIY Fork Maintenance

[George K <gkeslin@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I've done several Hawks and my ST and I'd recommend pulling the forks.  It 
makes it easier to get all the old oil out.  You may want to consider a new 
set of springs while you're at it.  I put in a set of Wilber progressive 
springs and RT emulators about 5,000 miles ago.  One of the best 
investments I've made.  It probably helps that I did a Wilbers shock at the 
same time but what an improvement on both ends!!!  I got them from here if 
you're interested:

www.motofanatic.net

I also have a Fork Oil Level Gauge from Motion Pro makes getting the 
correct oil level a snap!

http://www.motionpro.com/Docs/suspensiontools.html

I use a "long" allen socket to remove the bottom bolt from the fork.  Check 
McMaster  Carr part # 5571A45 (10 1/2" drive) or part # 8367A81
(6 3/8" drive).

http://www.mcmaster.com/

For a fork seal driver. I use PVC, a punch, and a hammer.  An 1 1/4 PVC 
"connector with the interior ridge removed works wonderfully too.

I use this lift when doing fork/wheel work:

http://www.bike-lift.com/eazyrizer.htm

For everything else I use this:

http://www.handyindustries.com/shop/product_view.asp?idProduct=46&D=1&S=21

HTH!  YMMV.

George


At 11:03 AM 8/26/2005 , sprint_st@xxxxxxx wrote:
> > The job was not too hard. You need a long allen (fairly large) to get the
> > screw at the bottom of each leg. Plus you need a rod (wooden) to hold the
> > damping rod when putting it back together.
> I'll probably use an allen socket.  I've thought that replacing the fork
> oil might be easier by just pulling the front wheel and taking out those
> screws out.  I know it's not that much easier but you wouldn't have to
> take the forks, fender and calipers off.  What do you think?
> Rod
>
>
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