Re: [ST] Gauge test point

["Chris Harwood" <Chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Bil

Another lister has posted a link to an existing procedure but....

Because torque is simply force time distance from centre/center, you
can produce 1ft lb of torque by hanging 1 lb, 1 ft from the centre of
the wrench drive (provided it's at 90 degrees to the shaft).  So,
likewise, 1 lb at 10 ft (that a scaffold pole added but you must weigh
it!) is 10 ft lb.  Because the scaffold pole weighs something, you have
to take account of that - it produces a torque of half its length time
its weight becuase its centre of gravity is halfway along it.

If that's too messy (and you can add the torques from different weights
at different distances) then you can mount the torque wrench
horizontally and press the end with some bathroom scales (if they're
calibrated), or a spring balance.

So, my torque wrench is 18 inches long (Yeh, yeh) so if I pull with
40lb at 90 degrees at the end, I am applying 60 ft lb of torque.

I don't think for cars and bikes you should worry about 15% inaccuracy
at least.

Disclaimer - I'm not trained as a automotive mechanic so someone else
on this list may have more detailed advice.  Aluminium alloys are far
more critical than steel for correct torque.

Another possibility is to stroll into a shop with your own torque
wrench and couple it to the most expensive one there and see if they
read the same in a fight! <G>

Chris Harwood
00 RS

>>> bil@xxxxxxxxxx 14/07/2005 18:12:01 >>>
On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Chris Harwood wrote:

-Torque wrenches are easier to check because you just have to mount
them
-in a vice and add a weight a specified distance from the drive-centre.

-Hopefully people on this list de-tension theirs during storage if
-they're the screw-up type?

Chris,

Yes on "detensioning" my screw/crank up wrenches, but can you tell me
more
about the checking with weights/distances?  Interesting!

-- 

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