Re: [ST] headlight

[Neil Lindsey <Neil.Lindsey@xxxxxxx>]

Marc,

after I thought about it a bit more I concluded that I also had it right
the first time after all, and was only re-stating it a bit differently
(but still correct) when I sent the follow-up.  However, the follow-up
failed to included a key word ("if only ONE of the high beams ...")

hope I didn't confuse things too much

Neil

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Van Est" <MarcVE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <ST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 1:07 AM
Subject: Re: [ST] headlight


> magic, nothing like some good common sense.
>
> thanks
>
> Marc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: st-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:st-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Neil Lindsey
> Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 10:39 AM
> To: ST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [ST] headlight
>
>
> Adding the correct relay to the open slot definitely gets beams acting
> together in unison.  No other changes required.  Only trick is to
> identify which relay to replicate.
>
> One of them is headlight cut-out relay (for starting purposes only)
and
> hitting starter opens ground to both headlights.  For the ones near
> battery -- one is main power relay and the other may actually be
starter
> solenoid..
>
> So I've been sitting here trying to think of a cute test that would
> determine which of the other two is the right one to replicate but the
> solution may be simpler.  I have a hunch that only one of them is even
> going to fit in the spare socket, so check that first.
>
> And if that doesn't help, try this.  Put dipswitch on high beam, pull
> ONE of the suspect relays and then turn on ignition switch.   If
neither
> headlight will turn on when you flip the dipswitch, then the relay you
> pulled was the headlight cut-out.  However, if low beam still works
then
> you the pulled the CORRECT relay and that's the one you need to
> replicate.
>
> The reason this works is because the headlight relay that's there
> already activates the second high beam circuit, which we know works.
> Adding the other relay activates the low beam that doesn't work now.
> IOW, one low beam is powered directly and the other is
relay-controlled,
> and one high beam is powered directly and the other is
relay-controlled.
> In Canada, we get both relays stock.  :)
>
> HTH
>
> Neil
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Marc Van Est" <MarcVE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <ST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 11:09 PM
> Subject: [ST] headlight
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I ended up having to remove the cockpit/fairing to get the bulb out,
> as the wiring clip had jammed.
> >
> > Seeing as I had it all off anyway, I decided to see if I could fit
the
> missing relay and get both dip lights working.
> >
> > I had another look at the pictures Emile Nossin posted on :
> >
> > http://piloot.smugmug.com/gallery/412756
> >
> > (Thanks Emile)
> >
> > Then I came unstuck, the relays on my '04 RS are not in the same
> place, they are tucked in behind the right hand side cover, just below
> the seat and to the right of the battery.
> >
> > The colors of the tape wrapped around each bundle of wires looks the
> same, but the relays have different numbers to the one Emile used.
> >
> > Here are the relays on my bike:
> >
> > White - no relay, just the slot to plug it in.
> > Red : Hella 4RA940010-71
> > Yellow: Hella 4RD003520-13
> > Blue : indicator relay
> >
> > I have jpg of the relays if someone wants to have a look at the
> layout. ( There are also two relays just behind the battery, but no
> spare slots. )
> >
> > Anyone know what the spare slot is for (white), and if it will power
> up the second dip, which relay to buy?
> >
> > If not, can I just bridge the two dips, or am I going to overload
the
> existing relay or wiring?
> >
> > thanks a lot,
> >
> >
> > Marc
> > Cape Town, RSA
> >
> >
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