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Re: [St] Oil drain and great list

At 08:57 AM 8/2/2007, Jack Hays wrote: 
Matt, who was the DWEEB who found this out the hard way?
Was he talking to friends at the time?
And maybe having a drink back in the old days?

Okay I'm not sure who that applies to, don't think it was me though. I'm a former fleet mechanic and avid DIY tinkerer.

A couple of points as I have read some replies on the T50 bit from the
digest:
1. The drain plug is not torqued very tight.

I said that as, but still suggested that Matt buy the good hardened bits for other projects. Since once you screw the end of one up (say removing a car brake caliper bolt that was installed the wrong locktite), then you learn your lesson and only by the best impact grade bits. Yes, They are total overkill for the drain bolt, but you won't have to keep replacing them either.

2. If you overtighten it then expect to find the center on your Torx bit as
it breaks out of the bolt outer threads. Then you buy a new bolt and remove
the threads from the engine case and install it.

Again my comments were not in relation to the bolt on the triumph, I was talking about hardened torx bolts in other areas. Also the comment I made about the center dimple was for the tamper proof torx bolts that companies like FORD love to sprinkle throughout their products.

3. Point is you don't really need an expensive Torx bit for that one bolt.
I got mine at a FLAPS and it's worked since January of 99. Remember, it's
only torqued to 18.44 ft lbs.

If that is then only place that you use that bit then you can use the bits out of a the dollar bin at the local parts store. I just hate having to buy the same tools either again and again, or more than once to get the high quality bits for the tougher bolts.

Also, the filter should be able to be unscrewed by hand. A Rubbermaid dish
washing glove improves grip tremendously.

You are correct you should be able to remove it by hand, but that is seldom the case. Particularly when you have already warmed up the bike and the oil is hot.

If it is stuck use very large Channel-Locks.
>From the right side open the Channel-Locks almost as wide as they will go,
hold at about a 30 degree angle, and clamp on the filter without rubbing
the belly pan. It's easier than it sounds once you try it.
Of course turn in the correct loosen direction. Remember, you might be
looking upside-down.
Here is a picture of the type of oil filter wrench I use for removing oil filters. As I said before it grabs every filter I have in my nine vehicle fleet, from the monster filter on my mustang to the micro-joke filter on my suv.

Hand tightened the new filter and all will be well the next time.

don't for get to smear a little oil on the filter gasket and dribble just a bit into the filter to help it self prime.


DO NOT punch a screwdriver through the filter with ideas of using it to
turn the filter off.


Agreed, I never do that, of course, I never have to with this filter wrench.

Last thing, for the price of a cheap airline ticket I'll come out and do
this oil and filter change for you :-)


Boo, hiss, shame on you. That would be a perfect excuse for a ROAD TRIP.

Jack "Rude Dog" Hays
972-952-5065
"I'll see you on the dark side of the Moon"


Nope, I be too busy howling at the full Moon.

Peace

JohnS
A Dragon Ascending
"Forging my body in the Fires of my Will"

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