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Re: [St] Chain breaker, riveter



I've seen this question pop up a few times recently, so I thought I would post this again.




I went down this road a while ago and had a great chat with my local mechanic where he very generously gave me some very good advice regarding bike chains.




First thing is that any mechanical workshop worth its salt, does not use chain breakers. They are not required. For me this was flying in the face of "conventional wisdom" but once it was explained, it made a heap of sense and I've never used a chain breaker since.Â



First, make sure you loosen the front sprocket nut before removing the chain. Dont use the engine/gear box as a brake. Get someone to stand on the rear brake and/or chock the back wheel with a lump of wood.Â




Second, if your chain is being replaced, theres no need to be nice in getting it off as its going to end up in the bin. I know people that use bolt cutters to reduced the time it takes to get a chain off. Alternatively, you can use an angle grinder or dremel tool to grind the head off the pins and tap it out with a punch.




Third, after you have the new sprockets on, set your chain adjuster to its shortest point. This will ensure you have the maximum adjustment available over the life of the chain and sprockets. Do NOT use the old chain as a measurement for the new chain.




Fourth, lace your new chain on to the sprockets. Take note of how the joiner link will fit in relation to the two ends of the chain. Also make sure that when the joiner link is put in, there is the required slack in the chain. Remember you can take it out with the adjuster, but you cant put any slack in if you cut the chain to short.




Fifth, use your angle grinder or dremel, to remove the links that aren't required. Be careful at this point, you dont want to grind away the plate you will be using. Add the joiner link. Its a bit of a press fit, so a bit of effort and in Âmy case, some swearing, helps out. Same goes for adding the "O" rings and plate.




Sixth, once its all together all you need do is pane the heads of the pins in the joiner link over. Its doesnt need to be much. Remember there is bugger all lateral forces on the chain so its not like there is pressure that will be trying to force the joiner link out. I use a ball pane hammer and back the chain with a block of wood. Â




Remember to tighten the front sprocket after the chain is on. Some use torque specs, some dont. Check for adjustment as you normally would.




Hope this helps.




Brett.Â

-----Original Message-----
From: John Ulizzi <jaulizzi@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: neo_motorhead_society@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; NE OH HSTA group @ Yahoo <neohhsta@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; st@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx; HSTA National <hsta@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 2:07 am
Subject: [St] Chain breaker, riveter








Het folks, 

Since one bike needs a chain now and the other has 21k
on its original chain and will need one soon, I am
considering purchasing chain breaker and riveting
tools and doing it myself. Which one do i want, where
is the best place to buy, and how hard is it to do?

Hope this doenst start a tire or oil like thread...

Thanks,

John
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