RE: [ST] Warped Rotors - or Sticking Rotor Buttons?

["Jonaz Kumlander" <jonaz@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Oki!

Sounds fair. I will go back to the dealer anyway to hear what they have
to say. Today when I road about 150 km I didn't feel the shake as much
as before so I got confused :)

Thanks a lot everyone! st@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx rocks!!!!

.z

- -----------------------------------------
Jonaz Kumlander
955i Sprint RS -00
 
e: jonaz@xxxxxxxxx 
u: http://t955i.net 
 
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- -----Original Message-----
From: Rich Hartwick [mailto:hartwick@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: den 27 juli 2001 16:50
To: ST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [ST] Warped Rotors - or Sticking Rotor Buttons?


> "Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 19:54:59 +0200
> From: "Jonaz Kumlander" <jonaz@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [ST] Brake problem
>
> Hi!
>
> I have a Sprint RS -00 that has done 11000 km and my brakes are 
> weird... When I hit the brake in 80 km/h the bike shake like an ABS 
> system on a car. What do you all think it is?
>
> Thanks, Jonaz

Jonaz,

It is not necessarily warped rotors.  The ST brakes are full floaters,
and probably among the best available on any street bike.  Even under
hard racing conditions, it is not likely these rotors will warp easily,
much less under normal street riding. outer rotor is sticking slightly
in the buttons that connect it to the inner hub part.  I think in some
rotors these buttons may have been peened slightly too tight from the
factory, or they corrode over time.  John Fitzwater of New Zealand had
recommended several years ago on the triumph-digest to inspect and
lubricate these buttons periodically.  As part of my routine
maintenance, I will lubricated them once or twice a year.  Use either
wd40 or some graphite oil.  Using a cottom Qtip swab, touch just the
slightest dab of oil oround each button, trying to reach into
the shank between the inner and outer rotor.   Obviously, you don't want
to stand
back and spray the disk with oil, and you don't want so much oil that it
will run out onto the rotor under speed. Just enough to barely wet the
button, keeping it localized to the inside shank portion where it is
needed.  Then, work the rotor back and forth by hand a bit, to make sure
it is free to move on the buttons, but don't do this so hard as to bend
the rotor.  Just induce some movement in it, in case it is lightly stuck
with corrosion.  It only takes a few thousandth of an inch off true to
make the brakes pulse.  The floating rotor must be able to true itself,
and it doesn't take much to have it stick lightly and pulsate.

Good luck,

Rick Hartwick
00 ST


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