Progress(Re: [ST] fuel connector leak question)

[brian <brd@xxxxxxx>]

brian wrote:
> >Erik, thanks for the info.  I wonder if connector replacement is
> >necessary at all (since you say the first time it was replaced it didn't
> >fix it)?  Maybe a nickel's worth of teflon tape will do the trick.  I
> >don't really trust my local dealer to fix it, since their mechanic
> >was in there to do the fuel sender replacement and he didn't do anything
> >about this glaring spot at the time.  I'm sure if I go back in and
> >point it out, they'll look at it, maybe fix it (I give them about a 1/3
> >chance), and charge me another $90.
> >
> >Anyway, I pulled the connector, and the o-ring looks good.  After
> >loosening the tank and raising the back of it up some, I can see weepage
> >from around that fitting all down around toward the bottom of the tank.
> >I'm thinking I might just put some teflon tape on the threads of that
> >fitting myself and see what happens.
> >
> >Laters,
> >Brian

Then On Wed, Feb 13, 2002 at 05:34:11PM -0500, Erik Miner wrote:
> If you're going to do it yourself ( my dealer did it cause it was 
> under warranty) I would order a new fitting first. Also you must 
> drain most or all of the fuel out or it's gonna be a big mess!
> 
> Erik

Good points.  I did manage to drain enough of the gas so that it didn't
pour out when I removed the connector.  (Note when removeing the
connector: you have to take the metal locking piece off.  push the pin
all the way in and slide the locking piece off.  be careful as both have
springs behind them that will shoot away or fall behind the frame
somewhere or get lost in your garage. Then you can get a 19mm socket
over the whole connector and unscrew it.)  I cleaned the area and the
connector up, and wrapped some teflon tape around the connector.  Then,
I put it back in and tightened it back down ... TOO MUCH and snapped the
freakin head off.  Doh!  The threads were still left in the gas tank,
and I had the hex-shaped half in my hand.

Obsceneties poured forth for a few minutes, then I calmed down and
called RPM Cycle in Dallas to see if by some miracle they might stock
this thing.  I was fully prepared for them to say they have to order
it, it would take 2 weeks to get here, and this little plastic piece
costs $30 or so.  I was shocked, however, when Keith told me he has it
in stock.  I was only slightly wrong on the price: $21.  I hauled ass
across town and got there before they closed.

Now all I had to do was get the EZ-outs and remove the threaded piece,
except that the largest bit in my set (a #5) was too small.  Well, it
would have been big enough, but there's metal behind the connector, so
you can't get the bit deep enough in for it to grip.  I tried wedging
everything in my tool arsenal in there to try and get a grip and extract
it: torx sockets, cold chisels, snap-ring pliers, screwdrivers, lawn
sprinkler tools, you name it.  Nothing worked.  

I managed to find a single #6 size EZ out at PepBoyz, and that did the
trick.  EZ-outs are worth their weight in gold, as far as I'm concerned.
There's no way I would have been able to pry or cut that old connector
out of there without messing up the threads on the brass plate.

I did notice that the new connector I bought today has a dried, red
loc-tite type stuff on it.  Maybe this is to help it seal better?  I
don't know, but I installed it without the teflon tape this time.

I'm still in the middle of reassembly and will test it out tomorrow.  In
the meantime, nobody light a match in my garage.  :|

Laters,
Brian
- -- 
'99 ST (black)
Dallas, TX

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