[no subject]

. . .and:  "Distilled water must be used with the anti-freeze. .
. in the cooling system.  If hard water is used in the system, it
causes scale accumulation in the water passages, and considerably
reduces the efficiency of the cooling system.  Reduced cooling
system efficiency may lead to the engine overheating and
suffering severe damage."

Another ceveat:  Should you decide to switch to the extended-life
(pink) coolant, all traces of the original coolant must be
flushed from the system to avoid compatibility problems.

Brakes:
There may be runout which can't be seen by the naked eye.
Perhaps you can persuade a local (machine) shop to check for
runout on the bike?  Failing that, the rotors could be removed &
checked for true on a brake lathe.

Bp's on track to a possible cause.  In the automotive arena, it's
customary to use a 120 grit sanding disc to break the glaze on
rotors and create a non-directional (swirl) finish.  You can
accomplish this with a sander attachment chucked up in a
high-speed electric drill, though the rotors may need to be
removed from the wheel to access the inside surfaces.  Go here:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/september/rxforr.htm
for a more thorough explanation.

When bleeding the brakes you may need to remove the left caliper
& raise it above the level of the fender to allow air which may
be trapped in the 'crossover hose' to escape.

HTH,
- -Rick in Oregon
'01 Sprint ST



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