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RE: [ST] Valve Shim Replacement - Another Perspective [was:Crank story continues...]
- Subject: RE: [ST] Valve Shim Replacement - Another Perspective [was:Crank story continues...]
- From: "Rick & Joyce" <rnjwes@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 11:24:34 -0700
This conversation applies to first-generation 955i and earlier 885
shim-OVER-bucket engines. For our purposes, that's the '01 and
earlier ST/RS. For multi Triumph owners, my recollection is the '01
Tiger and Daytona were the first models to get the second-generation
955i, shim-under-bucket engine as fitted to the ST/RS in '02.
Neil Lindsey wrote:
> > first of all, you don't have to be factory-authorized to work on a
> > Triumph (hell, many Triumph dealer mechanics are not
factory-authorized)
Tom Emberson responded:
> Yeah, but the dealer has to have the kit. So if he took the bike to
a
> dealer, the tech should have had access to it.
True, the dealer should have the tool but that doesn't mean it's
available. It may have been in use.
Neil:
> > secondly, you gotta admit -- for the mechanic that doesn't have
the
> > tool, the job probably IS easier
Tom:
> If the tech does not have the tool, then it is likely he hasn't been
> working on too many Triumphs, so I would probably do the job myself
or
> find someone with more Triumph experience. The tool is not that
> expensive. And I believe third party version exist.
I did work at a Triumph dealership and I don't have the factory tool.
My experience is that it is a PITA to use, perhaps more trouble than
it's worth. It requires disassembly and reassembly depending on
whether you're changing an exhaust or intake shim. There is also a
real danger you'll over-rotate the engine and bend the tool or at
least pop the arm off the edge of the shim bucket requiring that you
start over. As a former VW tech, I'm used to having a tool which will
quickly compress the shim bucket and facilitate shim exchange. These
days I use what I call a heel bar* to accomplish that. It ain't
perfect, but it allows shim replacement without using the factory tool
or cam removal.
Neil:
> > thirdly, it can probably be argued that once you have made your
> > measurements and know which shims need to be replaced, it might
> > actually be easier to remove the camshafts and change the shims
> > all at once rather than one at a time (depends probably on how
many
> > shims need replacing)
Tom:
> No, after doing the valves on my ST and playing with cams on other
> vehicles I can guarantee you that the tool will cut the time in
half,
> even if you have to replace every shim. Remember to pull the cams
you
> have to loosen the chain, remove all the caps, carefully lay out all
of
> the bearings, can't mix'n match those puppies, then carefully snake
the
> cams out (some bikes are worse than others, depends on where the
chain
> is), the reversal adds in making sure that you did not screw up the
> timing.
Even without using a heel bar (link below), it isn't necessary to
*remove* the cams to change shims. All one has to do is loosen the
caps. Granted the #3 shims (next to the cam chain) are a bit tight,
but it can be done.
Tom:
>YMMV of course. As an engineer I tend to optimize (as I've been
told),
and I just call'em the way I see them.
Nothing wrong with that!
--
Rick in Oregon
'01 Sprint ST
* Heel or Lady Foot bar: a small L-shaped pry bar about 6" [152mm] in
length with a curving, hooked end. I use a Mac LF-6, similar to but
smaller than those pictured here: http://tinyurl.com/7pk66
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