Re: [St] Petrol leak

[Frederic NIZERY <frederic.nizery@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

>i have a nylon connector coming out of the tank, linked to an alloy
>connector with the hose fitted. It looks like the nylon coupling has
>cracked as i can see the pin from the alloy. Camera battery was dead
>...
> Looks like as Chris Warren stated the
>female coupling has fatigued. I wont order from Houston even though
>ill be there in Feb, it might be quicker with the scottish dealer! ; )

No recall on the female part. As far as I remember the part number is corresponding 
to the link I provided yesterday. Mine is a 2002 ST. I can double check though.
I paid finally the metal part plus shipping the same price as the plastic one at my triumph dealer.

For me the crack was very light and I was just able to see an over consumption
in a first place. But as soon as I touched it cracked really and separated.

>anyone changed one themselves or is it best left to someone without
>two left thumbs?
 
In fact as the part took so long to come from the US and I wanted to ride. So
I repaired it w/ araldite (strong epoxy) and add an aluminum plate all over
w/ a hole of the quick connect diameter and assembled w/ the screws of the 
metal plate. That was 9 months ago. I will change the part as I will service it 
next time. 

The big deal is not to mount the new part but remove the older. I did most of the
way:
-verify the part you got is ok w/ the male fitting.

-get a dremel. The female quick connect is glued w/ loctite. Loctite is needed for the job.
-whether its blue or red I don't know. It's for sealing mostly so fuel proof and not too strong.
-manage to have the tank close to empty.
-but a blanket on the ground or some heavy rag
-alen and socket wrenches are needed plus a small (tiny) screw driver.

-remove the rear/side panels (now I remove the three rear parts in one shot removing
the grab rail).
-disconnect the 2 quick connects protecting the frame paint w/ some rags from the fuel.
-disconnect the pump electric connexion.
-remove the 3 bolts the hold the tank.
-remove the tank slowly and w/ your third hand disconnect :) the gauge electric connection (bottom)
-put gently the tank on the blanket on its left side shimming it for the metal plate to be horizontal.

-prepare some large tape to close the pump hole once the pump plate is removed. Better to cut a cardbord
plate the same shape of the metal plate.
-unscrew the metal plate: attention, you must unscrew from on turn every screw one after another until the 
pressure on the seal is null. If you don't do that you may strip the nylon or bent the plate.
-put the plate aside and seal off the hole w/ the tape and/or the cardboard. 
-put the plate assembly on a clean workbench. Your kitchen table is OK too.
-be sure that in the next operation you will be able to remove all the bits of the connect that fall into
 the plate assembly. It's not really a problem though.

-crack completely the quick connect w/ a socket like trying to unbolt it. I don't remember if you're forced to 
remove the metal lock. If you should, here is the method: with a nail or a small screw driver push 
on the retaining pin to sink it down completely. Then slide the lock and remove it.
-dremel the remaining of the connect. A small screw driver will help to finish the job. Be careful not to damage 
the thread. This last must be clean at the end of the job.
-with a vacuum cleaner remove all the remaining bits of plastic. 

-Verify that the part fits perfectly. It is a conical thread.
-If it's ok, put some loctite on the quick connect thread and bolt it.
-The loctite shouldn't be apply until the bottom to avoid it to fall in the 
plate assembly.
-Applying a torque w/ a socket wrench is useless as the loctite will seize it. Using just the socket could help though.
In this case remove the lock as indicated above. 
-wait for the loctite to dry up. Put back the lock if you removed it.

-remount in the reverse order. Attention, when screwing back the plate screws in the tank proceed the same way as unmounting:
 screw every screws until it touch the plate and the turn one turn per one turn on each screan. Fasten then a fraction 
per fraction of turn. Remember, it's nylon not metal. Don't be "ham fisted".

-before remounting the fairing turn on/off the key around ten times to remove the air in the hoses wayting 3 seconds each time.
-check for no leak.

-start the engin.
-check for no leak.

-put the fairing back in place. You're done.

I am sorry, it's not a Christmas tale. 

Fred



 



 





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