[Author Index]
[Date Index]
[Thread Index]
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next]
Re: [ST] bleeding brakes
- Subject: Re: [ST] bleeding brakes
- From: John Ulizzi <jaulizzi@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 23 May 2007 04:55:38 -0700 (PDT)
Harbor Freight has them for $32-35 , if you have one
near you...it is an indispensable tool...and while you
are there, pick up a Rolo Badboy ( A Stebel Nautilus
air horn) that will fit inside your fairing and make
the car in front of you think a train is bearing down
on them...
John
--- Antonio Bird <abird4@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Thanks Jim--I actually had done what you suggest
> yesterday up until "once
> the brakes can actuate." They never did, even
> though fluid was coming
> out.
>
> Thanks to those who suggested the mityvac. Did
> anyone obtain theirs
> locally (eg auto parts store chain?) I'd rather not
> wait for them to
> come in the mail.
>
> Tony
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Crate"
> To: ST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [ST] bleeding brakes
> Date: Tue, 22 May 2007 22:04:25 -0500
>
>
> On May 22, 2007, at 8:20 PM, Antonio Bird wrote:
>
> > Despite modest mechanical abilities, I decided
> to try to bleed the
> brakes
> > myself. Bought and installed speed bleeders.
> Seemed to be going OK
> > until I drained the reservoir too low and let
> air in the system.
> Then
> > got floppy lever which did not push through the
> fluid when I added
> more.
>
> I once let air that way into the hydraulic clutch
> system on my car,
> which was further complicated by the hydraulic
> buffer loop that
> system included with its own bleeder. It took
> almost a full liter of
> fluid to bleed that system enough to actuate the
> clutch again. If
> I'd known it would take that much, I would have
> gone to the store to
> buy some cheap fluid instead of use my $9/liter
> racing brake fluid!
>
> Anyway, here's what I'd do. Set up to bleed the
> caliper closest to
> the master cylinder. Fill the reservoir with brake
> fluid (have at
> least a liter on hand, you can use cheap stuff and
> once you have the
> system properly bled, it will be easy to flush the
> old fluid with
> better stuff later).
>
> Open the bleeder screw enough for fluid to come
> out with no
> resistance, .5 turn is probably enough. Operate
> the brake lever
> through its full range of travel quickly and
> repeatedly until you
> have fluid coming out the bleeder screw. If there
> is much
> resistance, open the bleeder a little more. Once
> you have a good
> squirt of fluid coming out of the bleeder, then
> close the bleeder and
> see how soft the brakes feel. If they stop before
> contacting the
> bar, then you at least have brakes, because it is
> only stopping
> because it is pushing the pistons to the rotor.
>
> Once the brakes can actuate, then I'd continue by
> closing the bleeder
> a little, until you can feel some resistance when
> you squeeze the
> lever, but it allows fluid to pass so that the
> lever will go to the
> bar when you squeeze. Squeeze the lever quickly
> and firmly several
> times. When you stop seeing bubbles in the lines,
> then open the
> bleeder until fluid goes through with no
> resistance and activate the
> lever quickly several more times. You want fluid
> to move through the
> system quickly, so the air bubbles don't keep
> rising back up the
> line.
>
> After repeating those steps a few times, the lever
> should be getting
> more firm. Obviously, watch the level of brake
> fluid in the
> reservoir at all times. If you suck in air, you
> are starting the
> process all over again.
>
> Once the lever is pretty firm, and you've repeated
> these steps for
> both calipers, then move back to the first
> caliper. Squeeze the
> lever hard, and then open the bleeder very
> quickly. You want a sharp
> burst of fluid coming out of the bleeder, carrying
> with it the last
> bubbles. Repeat this as necessary for both
> calipers.
>
> You can repeat the final bleeding procedure the
> next day for even
> better results, as overnight tiny air bubbles will
> coalesce together
> into larger bubbles that will be easier to bleed.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Jim
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumph Sprint ST/RS mailing list
> Send list posts to ST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Change your list options at www.Triumphnet.com
> _______________________________________________
> Triumph Sprint ST/RS mailing list
> Send list posts to ST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Change your list options at www.Triumphnet.com
>
_______________________________________________
Triumph Sprint ST/RS mailing list
Send list posts to ST@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Change your list options at www.Triumphnet.com