Re: [St] Still have cold start problem

[Edward Stack <stacked@xxxxxx>]

Update,

Now that Rupert's ST is my ST, I finally decided to take it to a  
dealer here in SE Mass. Last time the valves were checked (about  
40K), they were all in spec, though the intakes were on the tight  
side. Had them checked, and sure enough, 4 of 6 were at .105mm, while  
one was at .152mm, and one at .178mm (spec is .1 - .15mm). So they  
backed them all out and now the bike starts up fine from cold.

Thanks to all who replied regarding info in the idle control valve  
system. When I check resistances of the coolant temp, air temp, and  
air pressure sensors, they were all fine. It was only after being  
reasonably convinced that the ICV was working fine that I finally  
decided to have a shop look into it. Glad I did.

Cheers,

ed

On Apr 11, 2008, at 9:36 AM, marc Ve wrote:

> This is a bit odd considering how techinical minded you guys sound,  
> BUT:
>
> my Daytona had a cold start problem. It took several tries by the  
> agents
> before they discoverd that one of the throttle body sensors/  
> adjustments had
> gone out.
>
> I saw them do it, they used vacuum guages to reset something, and  
> after that
> the bike ran (still runs) beautifully.
>
> My fuel consumption also improved.
>
> Unfortunately I dont know enough to be more specific.
>
>
> cheers
>
>
> Marc
> Cape Town
>
>
> On 3/31/08, Frederic NIZERY <frederic.nizery@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> Rupert,
>>
>> Can't you have an obdII analyzer plugged in?
>>
>> In the workshop manual (2002 though) they speak also about a bad zero
>> throttle pos,
>> the "air hose" unplugged or an incorrect throttle closed position
>> adjustement.
>> Also throttle body not well balanced.
>>
>> Resistor: 75 Ohms between GR (green/red?)and B (ground)
>>                10 Ohms between YW (yellow/white?) and B
>> It's not indicated whether cold or warm. I would say cold.
>> They also say check for a short between GR and YW
>>
>> I would also check the battery.
>>
>> Fred ST 02 BRG
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