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Re: [St] Break In
- Subject: Re: [St] Break In
- From: Jim Crate <jimcfl@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:48:48 -0400
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I like the method given here:
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/NewBike.html#BreakIn
but I've never had a new bike (and only one new car) to break in, so
what do I know. It does make sense to me, though, and when I put the
motor back together in my car I'll break that one in the same way. My
new car was never "broken in", I just drove it, and not easy! At 80K
miles, it still ran perfect with excellent power for that motor and
was very clean when I adjusted the valves. I never got to see how far
it would go, though, because I broadsided someone who ran a red light
and the car was written off.
In general, I think the "break-in" procedures are probably more
intended as a "new rider break-in" than a new engine break-in. I
followed a similar procedure when I got my first bike (84 Honda
Magna), and again when I went from that bike to the Sprint. The
Sprint was massively powerful compared to the Magna, and so it was
probably at least a couple weeks before I even went WOT. But, the
Sprint wasn't new, I was just taking it easy to give myself time to
get used to the (new to me) bike.
If everyone that bought a new bike followed a sensible rider break-in
procedure (not far from what the factory recommends as an engine break-
in procedure), there would be a lot less bikes wrecked in the first
1000 miles.
One of the main reasons that race engines don't last as long as a
regular factory street engine is that racing engines are built with
very loose clearances for best power. In fact, F1 engines are so
loose that the entire motor has to be warmed up to operating temps
before the motor can even be started (the oil and coolant are
circulated through external heaters).
Jim
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