Sprint ST Modifications
|Thanks to Lance LaCerte (LACPSYD@email.msn.com) for doing the
fender chop and getting the pictures to me. He also wrote up some instructions
(below), but if you have some questions, please let him know.
|The short stalk "racing" turn signals
are from Lockhart Philips - picked them up at a local cycle shop for around
||The rest is a combination of Dremel with
reinforced cutting tool, some careful measuring, a Stanley sureform for
finishing the cut edges and a little bit of patience.
|All work was done with the fender on
I purchased a pair of Lockhart aftermarket short stalk turn signals (see pics)
for $15.00 from my local scoot shop. I pulled apart the stock ST turn signals
and cut the connectors off of them, then cut off the connectors on the Lockhart
and soldered the ST connectors onto the Lockharts so that they would push right
into the ST wiring harness outlets for the turn signals. I held the stocks of
the Lockharts up against the sides of the fender just below the painted tail
section to get an idea of how much of the fender I could chop and still leave
an area to which I could mount the turn signals.
Using a drill bit slightly larger than the turnsignal threaded stock, I drilled
through the side of the fender and continued through into the plastic squared
section under the seat (the open area under the seat release mechanism where
you can store some small items). I then threaded the wiring through (thread the
nut through the wiring first) and tightened up the tailights. Using a ruler
(also used to measure equal distances from the tail section to ensure that the
new turn signals were equidistant on the sides) I traced, with a thin magic
marker, a perimeter line just below the stalks of the new turns signals. This
would become my 'chop line'. I actually then removed the new turn signals so I
wouldn't damage them.
Using the REINFORCED cutting wheel on my Dremel, I cut off the 'bulbous mass'.
I went to Home Depot and found a rectangular piece of galvanized roofing
flashing for something like 29 cents that was slightly bigger than my license
plate. I traced the plate on the flashing and cut it/rounded it to the exact
size of the license plate. I drilled the two upper holes of the plate into the
flashing piece. I then popped out the rectangular reflector still left on the
remaining section of tail piece. This exposed two holes which I measured and
transfered their measurements to the license plate mouting piece (the flashing)
and drilled two corresponding holes---- I figured the postion of these two
holes by holding the license plate directly up under the tail light to ensure a
snug fit. Using two flat headed nylon screws with nuts I affixed the backing
plate through the two 'relfector holes' and then used two wing nuts to attach
the license plate to the affixed backing plate.
Voila!!!! -- a basically simple task, with, what I believe are striking results
--- what a great rear end!!!!